CROSSINGS - Essay by Anne-Louise Willoughby

“Big sky, big road, big desert, little Koko...

At times on the Eyre Highway (all 1,600 plus kms of it), you feel very small, dwarfed by the ‘magesterial’ wilderness that surrounds you, and the shift in colour and light of its moody skies.

The actual Nullarbor Plain is just one treeless segment (I hope to reach it in a week) of the highway, but locals refer, reverentially, to the whole legendary stretch from Norseman to Ceduna, as simply, 'The Nullarbor'.

Walking along it, and particularly often camping in its midst, you can sense the sacred nature of the place, its geographical vastness and stark beauty.

The night skies, riddled with myriad winking stars.”

Tom Fremantle, world walker (2023).

The lure of a desert crossing has enticed travellers for millennia. Psychologist Robert Wicks writes that one of the most fascinating groups of spiritual guides in history was the fourth and fifth century Fathers (Abbas) and Mothers (Ammas), ancient desert monks of the Persian and Northern African deserts.  They didn’t want their perspective to be dominated by the culture of the time and instead sought simplicity and purity of heart. Perhaps the lure of a desert crossing today has, in part, components of the spiritual which at its heart often reflects the desire to break from habit, to escape the chains of modern life. When undertaken by choice, a desert crossing offers an opportunity to return to the fundamentals of the moment when human engages fully with the natural world.

The level of that engagement will depend on how much kit is involved – vehicle, camper, caravan, motorbike, bicycle, or perhaps hardy foot ware as in Tom Fremantle’s case, along with his baby buggy kit holder, Koko. For the adventurer, the athlete, or the traveller en route, the impetus for the crossing will differ in tone. It might also depend on whether there is a goal attached – fastest crossing, first crossing in a certain mode, a fundraising objective, or maybe a group initiative, just the need to get from A to B, or perhaps a self-discovery tour. Whatever the mode of transport or desired end result, there will inevitably be a moment when the grandeur, the vastness, and the apparent ‘emptiness’ of a desert crossing will register. I have crossed the Nullarbor – Oondiri as it is known by traditional owners – a number of times in various vehicles. The moment when the rhythm of the desert landscape seeps into your soul arrives with the acceptance of the distance you must navigate. There are the kilometres on the odometer then there are those in your mind’s eye, the thought flow, and the slowing of the impulses that run your everyday – a desert crossing, in whatever mode, shifts your body’s gears. The ‘emptiness’ is a fleeting notion as the desert leaps into hyper focus and draws you in. I think Kant might have something to add here about the sublime, but that is for you to explore.

Cyclist Arthur Richardson speaks of his love of adventure and pioneering work as primary drivers of his desert crossings in the late 1890s and, as I write, modern day adventurer Fremantle is a few hundred kilometres shy of completing his solo walk across Australia as part of his attempt to walk around the world. Tom is a generous man and ties his wanderlust to great causes raising funds while crossing deserts and circling war zones. He has shared in real time his experience of walking across the Nullarbor – a little different from Richardson’s record of his second crossing published in booklet form in 1900 by his sponsors, the Dunlop Pneumatic Tyre Company, entitled ‘The Record of a Remarkable Ride’. While Richardson’s maps were a valuable pioneering resource, Fremantle had the benefit of the macadam, the roadhouses, truckies, grey nomads, cyclists, and other enthusiastic passers-by. He does, however, have only his two feet to propel him rather than Richard’s Dunlop pneumatics on a new-fangled contraption:

“When I bought a machine in 1896 and learned to ride it,” he remarked, “and three  weeks later expressed my intention of doing what no other cyclist had done across, via Eucla and Port Augusta, to Adelaide, those who heard of it called me foolhardy and, after vainly endeavouring to dissuade me from making the attempt, predicted that I would not succeed. Succeed, I did, however, and to show that the feat was not an impossible one, but merely one which required to be done …”

As Fremantle began his solo walk across Australia, pushing his supplies and meagre camping equipment in the converted baby carrier, he posted on his Instagram page, his virtual travel diary. He speaks to the ideas of isolation:

When Apollo 11 astronaut, Michael Collins, was left manning the spacecraft while his more famous crew mates, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, walked on the moon, he was described as ‘the loneliest man in history’. I think he certainly earned this title back in 1969 - and, through that historic moment, he still probably eclipses all others when it comes to human isolation.

Perhaps the closest us earthlubbers can come to Collins' unique social dislocation is when we sail alone into the high seas, or scale a remote mountain, or bivouac in the midst of the desert or the jungle.

Certainly, camping alone in the Australian outback is at first daunting: the burr of cicadas, the red earth, the green and bone white gum trees, the exquisitely lit, at times apocalyptic, evening skies.

But, once you have set up camp, often early (it is fully dark by 6.30pm now) and boiled pasta and brewed tea, you relax and savour the moment. Solitude, yes, but not really loneliness. It's been a punishing but positive few days walking the 180 odd kms between the little mining towns of Southern Cross and Coolgardie, including a few wild camps.

The Nullarbor covers approximately 180,000 square kilometres, and the treeless plain about 52,000. At its widest point from Norseman in the west to Ceduna – Tjutjuta, meaning resting place – it extends1,200 kilometres. Three quarters of the Nullarbor is in WA. By the time Fremantle reaches Sydney he will have walked over 3,500 kilometres in a four-month trek. His trusty buggy has received maintenance along the way – the last being in Wagga Wagga at Kidson’s Cycles by team member Rohan who said, “All the cross-country cyclists and walkers end up here – we attract you crazies but always try and fix you up.” Fremantle writes that he met Douglas de la Concha ‘in the middle of nowhere on the Nullarbor’. Concha is attempting a Guinness Book of Records ride to be the fastest round the world cyclist on a one gear bike (covering 165kms a day) and was also a satisfied Kidson’s customer. Seven cyclists crossed Fremantle’s path as he walked the Nullarbor – a round the world rider who had covered 30,000 kilometres from Japan, two Australians, two Germans, a Brit and de la Concha, a Hawaiian. It was a different story for the first recorded crossing on foot, as Fremantle reflects:

"A hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of nature...”

This is how the explorer, Edward John Eyre, described the Nullarbor in 1841, after becoming the first recorded person to cross the vast plain with his indigenous colleague, Wylie.

Now, the 1600 odd kms Eyre Highway, stretching the Nullarbor and beyond, which I have just finished walking, is named after him.

The sky was moody as I crossed into the little harbour but my mood was elated as I thought back to all those days walked and nights camped in the bush: the wind, rain, sun, rainbows and lately frost; the dingoes, wild goats, roos, emus and a plague of mice; the ghost gums and spinifex and mulga stumps; the big jinker road trains, the camper vans and once in a blue moon, bicycles; the red dirt and dirty clouds, the star spangled nights and noon skies of fathomless blue, the pure, if sometimes misty dawns and the rusty dusks.

Yes, it will take time to shake off the Eyre Highway's beautiful grip on my memory.

I can imagine Tom Fremantle sitting down with Scotchie Wright for a chat about being the first cyclist to ride from Fremantle, named for Tom’s ancestor Captain Thomas Fremantle, to Adelaide. Resting under the same night skies of the ancient plain what would they make of each other’s quests? Tom Fremantle has cycled from Swanbourne in Buckinghamshire to Swanbourne in Perth, while not at the pace of Hubert ‘Oppy’ Opperman’s crossing from Fremantle to Sydney in 1937, there would be much to discuss. Needless to say, Oppy and Wright may share this sentiment on Nullarbor crossings from Fremantle:

If my walk was plain sailing, like a steady pulse, it would be very dull. You need the peaks and troughs, the blood and dirt, the sun and rain, the dead on your feet, howl at the moon moments as well as the many blissed out, euphoric ones.

Whenever the walk is tough going, I always try to remember how hugely lucky I am to be doing it. Many dream of such travels but never have the chance: I need to be true to all those dreams.

Anne-Louise Willoughby

References

Wicks, R.J., Crossing the Desert: Learning to Let Go, See Clearly, and Live Simply, Sorin Books, New York, 2008.

Richardson, A., ‘The Record of a Remarkable Ride’, The Dunlop Pneumatic Tyre Company of Australasia Ltd, Sydney, 1900.

Fremantle, T.F.H., @tomfremantle, 2023.

https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/opperman-sir-hubert-ferdinand-oppy-28107 , accessed 19 September, 2023.

Arthur Warren & Robert Lennie

Warren and Lennie on the goldfields, 1907 - courtesy WA Museum

Neither adventurers or travellers, Arthur Warren and Robert Lennie were Coolgardie road racers who simply wanted to set a new Perth-to-Sydney record, a distance of 3,050 miles. Amid cheers from the large crowd of onlookers, they departed Coolgardie on February 18th 1907 for a three day ride to Perth.

The conventional overlander bike was a heavy-duty, high-riding roadster of British origin,designed to carry the rider and a load of clothes, blankets and supplies across rough tracks and rocky roads. Many would carry a gun for hunting food, and as defence from potentially hostile first nations people.

Racers at heart, Warren and Lennie took a different approach. They headed to the Davies-Franklin agency in Perth to collect low, lightweight, Ballarat made path racers straight off the showroom floor. Fitted with Australian-made Dunlop tyres, their equipment was kept light and minimal, the biggest concession being canvas frame bags containing 1½ gallon water tanks.

In a further break from overlander convention, Warren and Lennie were among the first transcontinental riders to adopt thigh-length tights to reduce weight and wind resistance.  Even in competition, shorts had not long before been considered ‘obscene’ or ‘indecent’ and racers fined for wearing them.

They took the ‘usual coastal route’ via Coolgardie, Widgiemooltha, Balladonia and Eucla. The official record stood at 40 days, set by Donald MacKay in 1900 on the last leg of his anti-clockwise circumnavigation of Australia. The pair planned to meet famed endurance cyclist Francis Birtles at Widgiemooltha and to ride with him... ‘If he will throw away some of his loading, we may agree,’ said Lennie, ‘we are travelling very light.’

Soon after leaving Perth they struck heavy rain making roads and tracks unrideable and delaying them for weeks as they pushed and, at times, carried their bikes through the mud. Though the lightweight machines withstood their 93 day ordeal to Sydney, Warren and Lennie’s confidence was misplaced and the record attempt failed dismally.

Robert Lennie’s Kalgoorlie bike shop

The Jubilee Couriers

1951 was the Commonwealth of Australia’s 50th birthday. After battling through a depression, two world wars and facing the rising spectre of communism the Menzies government decided 1951 would be a year to unite the nation and reaffirm all citizens’ allegiance to the Commonwealth and Crown. All facets of Australian society were involved. Cycling was represented in the sporting division, which was chaired by Hubert Opperman MP, arguably Australia’s greatest cyclist, and by now the federal member for Corio, VIC.

The main cycling event planned was The Jubilee Loyalty Despatch Bicycle Relay.  From every part of every state, nominated cyclists collected official loyalty pledges offered by every level of Australian society. From individuals, Mayors and Shire Presidents, officials of clubs, societies, trade unions, churches, principals of schools and colleges, executives of commercial and business groups, and Aboriginal groups.

Starting as trickles of pledges in the most remote parts of each state, the flows merged as they approached capital cities. From as far north as Darwin, and all parts of the previously pro-secessionist West, pledges were gathered in Perth.

At 4:00pm on Sunday April 22nd the five official West Australian relay couriers set out from the Esplanade on their 4000 km journey to Canberra.

Opperman had personally asked noted long distance rider and West Australian Police Sergeant Vic Waltham to head the ride. From the West, Waltham was joined by professional riders Eddie Barron and Ray Felton and two of WA’s best amateurs Chas Renner and Merv Sunderland.

The imposing Sgt.Waltham, all 192cms and 102kgs, was a veteran of 2 Nullarbor cycle crossings and held the solo unpaced east to west crossing record for more than 24 years. Not only was Vic Waltham facing another crossing but he had already just completed the solo courier ride from Darwin to Perth. Mercifully for Waltham, the potential 4760 km journey had been shortened by impassable wet season roads.

With an Army escort and a spotlight equipped Jeep to light the way ahead at night, the five rode and rested in rotation, only stopping to gather more pledges or to be guests at civic receptions. Eleven days of riding, slowed only by gravel roads and bad weather, saw the party reach Adelaide, where, due to poor organisation and the fact that the riders were not being paid, Renner and Sunderland’s journeys finished. Waltham, Barron and Felton pushed on to Canberra without them.

The culmination of the Relay was a reception in Canberra on the steps of Parliament House at 3pm on the 8th of May. Watched by diplomats, politicians and Jubilee officials the Prime Minister R. G. Menzies accepted delivery of 300,000 loyalty pledges and 200,000 pledge cards from school children.

It was estimated that 200,000 cyclists had taken some part in the relay and covered perhaps ‘a million miles’ on ‘the infernal machine’, to quote the PM.

Researched and written by Viv Cull.

IndiPac

Perth physical education teacher Colin Ottaway was first to finish the 2022 IndiPac.

‘My plan was to ride for 15 hours, stuff around for two hours and sleep for seven hours. Which I thought was sustainable. Providing I could eat enough.

You pull in at a roadhouse to get some food and people look around and ask ‘What are you doing? You’ve obviously ridden a fair way.’ I say we're going from Freo, we're heading to Sydney and that's all I've got. I can't remember the roadhouse, but I remember some kid who was so blown away, at the whole idea and concept.

It's a sense of achievement and accomplishment as I look back on it. Right across the country. In 17 days. And you meet some people. You share this bond that you're an overlander and you've ridden across the country.’

The tragic early morning death of competitor Mike Hall on the outskirts of Canberra brought 2017’s inaugural Indian Pacific Wheel Race event to a sudden, unexpected close.

The IndiPac as it has become known was the brainchild of Melbourne bike builder and winner of the 2015 Trans Am Bike Race, Jesse Carlsson. It was designed to reanimate the overlander spirit and celebrate cycling in its purest form — the rider, the bicycle, and the road.

Aside from being a self-supported ride the IndiPac has become self-organising; within days of the cancellation of the 2018 second edition, many entrants chose to ride the route unofficially. Subsequent years have seen riders meet at Fremantle’s South Mole every third Saturday in March. At 6:22am, the time of the impact that killed Mike Hall, there is a minute of silence before riders ‘clip in' and head for the Sydney Opera House.

Ultra-distance rides return us to a landscape devoid of sponsorship and support teams, and propel us into the world of dot watchers, vlogs and trail angels. A century and a quarter after Arthur Richardson’s ride from Coolgardie to Adelaide interest in the crossing remains undiminished.

Followers of Oppy’s 1937 record ride turned on the wireless to track his progress, marking it off town by town on pamphlets distributed by sponsor Malvern Star. Today spectators watch signals from tiny transponders move across an onscreen map, and get detailed rider updates from videos on riders’ social media.

Rod Evans

Rod Evans

Australian Ultra-Marathon Cyclist and Record Breaker

ROD EVANS

Rod Evans was Australian Cyclist of the Year in 1990 and 1994 and was twice awarded the Oppy Oscar for his cycling achievements.

In 1989 Rod broke the Around Australia Cycling Record riding 13,900 kilometers in 49 days 22 hours 31 minutes. In 1994, he broke the world track cycling records for 100 miles, 200 miles, 12 hours, 24 hours and 1000 kilometres. He covered 853 kilometres in 24 hours and 1000 kilometres in 28 hours 12 minutes and 33 seconds. During the first 8 hours of his 1000-kilometre record attempt he averaged just under 40 kph.

ROD’S INTRODUCTION TO CYCLING

Rod commenced ‘long distance’ cycling the week he started primary school. Rod’s primary school was one mile (1.6 kms) from his home on the family farm. At age 4, on his first day at school, his father took him to school by car. On his second day at school, his father took him to the end of the driveway, pointed him in the right direction and left him to ride to school. Rod rode a chain driven tricycle with solid rubber wheels, with a small lunch box wired to the back of his seat.

At age 12 Rod started school at The Geelong College, 17 kilometers from home. He soon gave up travelling by bus and started riding to and from his school in Geelong.

While at school, Rod read Russel Mockridge’s book, My World on Wheels. Mockridge had attended the same school as Rod and, before his death in a bike race in Victoria, was a world champion cyclist dominating cycling in Australia in the late 1940s and 50s. Mockridge was also a dual Olympic Gold medalist, racing in Europe on the track and road and had competing in the Tour de France. Rod was inspired and wanted to become a competitive cyclist.

After reading Mockridge’s book, Rod entered a bike race run by the local Geelong Amateur Cycling Club. He won. A few weeks later he entered the Victorian State Road Championships. He came last. Over the next few years, he won a series of races including State titles on the road, the South Australian Kangaroo Island Tour and championships on the track.

Just as his cycling career was emerging, in the late 1970s, at the age of 20, Rod fell ill with glandular fever. He was sick for several years and did not return to cycling until the mid-1980s.

When he returned to cycling, he found that he could no longer match the racing speed and endurance of other cyclists. He gave up on his ambitions of winning a world championship, or even winning a local race, and he started to gravitate to his other love of cycling – riding long distances. Long distance riding was already in his DNA. In 1974, as a 16-year-old, he had used his school Easter break to ride from Adelaide to Geelong (780 kilometers), covering over 200 kilometers each day despite being weighed down with heavy panniers and a backpack. That ride inspired in Rod the joy of hard long-distance riding. In the 1980s he returned to his passion of long-distance riding.

AN ACCIDENTAL ENCOUNTER WITH THE AROUND AUSTRALIA CYCLING RECORD

In 1983, Rod rode from Melbourne to Sydney to attend a garden party. On the road he met four Danish cyclists who were preparing for an attempt on the Around Australia Cycling Record. They asked if Rod would be interested in joining them as they wanted to add an Australian team member. Rod declined as he felt that he was still too weak to match them over such a long-extended ride. The following year, in 1984, these cyclists set a new Around Australia Cycling Record of 80 days.

The idea of the Around Australia record stayed in Rod’s mind, and as his strength returned, he started to think about making his own attempt on this record. While he no longer had an interest in bike racing, on the few times he raced he would often wake up at 4.00 am and complete a hard 100 km ride before the race started. On one occasion he rode over 300 kms to compete in a race. He was now more interested in using racing to build his endurance than using his endurance to build his racing.

In May 1989 Rod set off from Forrest Place in Perth in an attempt to break the Around Australia record. The outcome was something that he had not expected. He lowered the record by 30 days.

He believed that he had now found another way to realize his dream of becoming a champion cyclist. He started to plan an attempt on the world 24-hour track cycling record. His training again included long distance rides. He completed a 1000-kilometer Audax ride in Bendigo Victoria on a fixed wheel bike. On another trip east he rode from Adeliade to Sydney and return to Melbourne, again on a fixed wheel bike.

He came to his 24-hour record attempt in June 1990 strong and fit. As luck would have it, 3 days before his record attempt he contracted the flu. He still attempted the record but was only able to cover 788 kilometers – which failed to beat the world record although it did break Sir Hubert Opperman’s Australian 24-hour record (and former world record) which had stood for over 50 years.

Later that year Rod re-commenced his training. Unfortunately, in November 1990 he had an accident at the Midvale velodrome and shattered his left leg. Over the next 2 years he underwent 5 operations and extensive rehabilitation to restore the strength in his leg. 30 years later he still has one leg significantly smaller and weaker than the other.

Nearly 2 years after his accident, Rod re-commenced his bike training. In September 1992, despite limited training, he participated in the Great Bike Ride, a mountain bike stage race from the eastern most point of Australia, through the central Australian desert, to the western most point. The race attracted an international field. Despite the difficult sandy conditions, the race stages covered more than 200 kilometers each day. Rod was one of only six riders to complete the race.

In 1993 Rod started training in earnest. As part of his training, he rode across Australia three times. In November 1993 he crossed the Nullabor desert riding a mountain bike from Tarcoola to Kalgoorlie following the transcontinental rail line. In February / March 1994, he rode a road bike (which he still rides today) from Perth to Geelong in Victoria and return to Perth following the Eyre Highway.

His training paid off and in May 1994 he broke the world track cycling records for 100 miles, 200 miles, 12 hours, 24 hours and 1000 kilometres. He covered 853 kilometres in 24 hours and 1000 kilometres in 28 hours 12 minutes and 33 seconds. He averaged just under 40 kph during his first 8 hours of riding. Regrettably, power metres did not exist at the time of Rod’s record attempts, however there is the possibility that Rod had built significant strength. In training he was able to include intervals riding at 50 kph for around 2-3 kilometres despite riding a heavy training bike with mudguards and 1 ¼ inch high pressure tyres.

THE BIKE ROD USED FOR THE AROUND AUSTRALIA RECORD

The bicycle used by Rod to break the Around Australia Cycling Record was originally built for Rod’s father, Peter.

Ken Evans (winner of the 1972 Sun Tour) built this bike for Peter Evans (no relation) to ride in the 1980 World Veteran Road Race Championships. Peter crashed out of the World Championship race, putting the bike through a wire fence, but while racing in Europe he won the All Nations 5-race series in Hartberg, Austria and the last stage of the Veteran’s Tour de France.

In 1982, as part of an “over 50’s” promotional ride with Cecil Cripps, Peter rode the bike across the Nullarbor from Perth-to-Brisbane. He completed the 6,000 kms in 44 days, riding for between 4 ½ hours and 8 hours each day at ‘racing speed’.

TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF THE AROUND AUSTRALIA BIKE AND RECORD ATTEMPT

Rod’s Around Australia bike is still largely unchanged from the way the bike was set up by his father. The only change Rod made to the bike when he borrowed it from his father for the Around Australia Record was to add Scott Triathlon bars – the use of triathlon bars been a recent innovation at the time in the world of long-distance cycling. The frame has since been repainted in its original red colour, and new arm rests have been added that replicate the design used by Rod in 1989.

The crank length is 180mm. Both Rod and his father Peter rode 180mm cranks believing that this gave them a leverage advantage – something that has now been proven to be incorrect. Despite the use of tri bars, the seat was positioned 80mm behind the centre bracket, reflecting the more relaxed positions of that era. Lighting was provided through two battery charged clip on lights. These lights barely lit up the road which made riding at night difficult. One night Rod crashed into a mob of cattle sleeping on the road near Katherine in the Northern Territory, when he failed to see them because of his poor lighting.

The pedals with straps and toe clips used on the bike were the pedals used by his father. Clipless pedals were becoming more common; however, Rod chose to use the original pedals. The shoes that were worn when riding these pedals however were leather and didn’t have the fit of modern shoes. Rod suffered from horrendous blistering on his feet and at one stage during his Around Australia record attempt rode in slippers.

Generally, there was an overall lack of technology. Although the bike was fitted with an electronic speedo, there were no mobile phones of GPS maps. Rod navigated by following the road signs by the side of the road. He had no way to contact his support crew – who were two Canadian backpackers who had volunteered to help. He often had to stop and wait so his support crew would know which road he was using and not lose him. The only way the support crew could find Rod was to ask passing motorists. At night the crew would leave a witch’s hat beside the road to indicate where they had turned off to find a caravan park or stop for the night.

Clothing was also a problem. The rain jacket worn by Rod was a heavy canvas-like Gortex jacket that came down to around knee length. Not only was it heavy, but it also caught the wind. Rod rode for nearly 2 weeks in constant rain between Ceduna in South Australia and Brisbane in Queensland. His warm clothing consisted of knitted woollen hats, woollen arm warmers and woollen jumpers.

Food was basic by modern day standards. Rod drank water during the day. He started the day, often around 3.00 am, with 6-8 Weetbix. Lunch and dinner were usually a large bowl of pasta. During the afternoon he would have a pie and a coke as a ‘pick-me-up’. Rod also supplemented his daily diet with sandwiches made by the support crew. One day, after hearing the support crew complaining about the number of sandwiches they were making, Rod was surprised to learn that each day he often snacked between meals on a full loaf of bread made up into various types of sandwiches.

UNEXPECTED INSIGHTS FROM THE AROUND AUSTRALIA RECORD ATTEMPT

Rod describes his Around Australia Record attempt as a ‘baptism of fire’.

He says that one of the things he was not expecting was how quickly fatigue would accumulate and the impact this would have on his riding. When combined with head winds and rain, and not having the benefit of a day of rest to recover, he found the constant grind of the Around Australia record was much harder than he had expected. In setting the new record, Rod rode an average of 278 km each day for nearly 50 days without a rest day. Before the record attempt he was able to complete a hard 300 km training ride (at what we might now describe as hard temp pace) without too much difficulty. He therefore expected that riding 250 kilometres per day would be relatively easy. What he found was that riding this distance every day, without having a rest day, was easy for the first 5 days, but then it got much harder. By day 9 it felt very hard.

The other unexpected challenge he encountered was the impact the support crew had on how far he could ride each day. He started the ride believing that the cyclist was the most important part of the record attempt. During the record attempt he came to understand that the support crew is the most important part. He found that an Around Australia Record Attempt is much harder on the support crew than on the rider. The support crew faces a lot of stress; finding the cyclist during the day, guessing what the cyclist wants, finding a place to stop at night, dealing with the media and driving into the late hours and starting early in the morning. This was made even harder during Rod’s ride because there were no mobile phones or GPS tracking. When Rod undertook his ride, he had a very small, young, and inexperienced support team. They did an excellent job, but it was extremely hard on them. When Rod’s father joined the support crew halfway through his record attempt, the addition of just one extra person allowed Rod to ride days of up to 400 kms each day against his earlier daily rides of 200 – 250 kilometres. The cyclist can only ride as far each day as the support crew have the energy to let him.

WHY RECORDS WILL CONTINUE TO BE BROKEN

While better and faster equipment, better training methods and better fuelling and rehydration options has had a massive impact on how far and fast cyclists can ride, Rod believes that expectations also play a key part in records being broken.

When Rod broke the Around Australia record the expectation was that 200 kms per day, day in day out without rest, was a hard ride. His ride of 49 days was seen as a ‘superman’ effort. Yet only 16 years later, in 2010, Peter Heal rode around Australia solo and unsupported in 48 days and 23 hours – a day faster than Rod’s supported ride. Three years after Heal’s ride, in 2013, Reid Anderton rode around Australia supported in 37 days I hour and 18 minutes, over 12 days faster than Rod.

Rod’s 24-hour record has also been substantially lowered. In 2021 Christoph Strasser rode 1026 kms to set a new indoor track cycling record. He had already seen from his own ride in 2017, of nearly 942 kilometres, that breaking the 1000-kilometre barrier was possible. In 2021 Christoph rode 173 kilometres further than Rod Evans’ 1994 record. His average speed, including stops, was nearly 43 kph.

Rod believes that as riders set faster times the expectation of what is possible changes, and this allows future riders to find ways to ride even further and faster.

DID THESE RIDES EFFECT ROD’S HEALTH

The answer is possibly yes.

After completing his 1000-kilometre record attempt in 1994 he travelled to Penang for a holiday. He took his road bike. While in Penang he ventured out each day and rode around the Island, about 70 to 80 kilometres. During the ride he would often draft behind the motorbikes on the roads. One day a motorcyclist pulled him over. They were an official with the Malaysian Cycling Association. When they found out who Rod was, they asked if he would race that weekend. He won the race, but there was a feeling that something was physically wrong with him. Shortly after he got home from Penang, he could barely summons the energy to walk around the block. He was diagnosed with Chronic Fatigue Syndrome – the same symptoms he had in his 20s. It is difficult to know if the strain of his cycling triggered or contributed to his condition, but it may have. He was also later to have prostate issues, which the doctor said might have been caused or exacerbated by the saddle he used when riding.

The biggest impact of his record attempts was possibly on his mental state. He came back from the Around Australia record attempt very buoyed and positive about life and what people might be able to achieve and how they might achieve it. Interestingly, his attitude to material wealth had also changed. When he returned home from his Around Australia Record attempt, he was surprised how much joy he got from opening a fridge and seeing a can of coke. If he had a can of coke in the fridge and access to a hot shower, he felt wealthy. Even today he finds it hard to avoid the feeling of being wealthy if he has access to a hot shower and a can of coke.

He did come back from his Around Australia Record also with some amusing mental scaring. For years after returning from his Around Australia record, he had difficulty riding in the rain. The days and days of riding in the rain and cold during his Around Australia Record attempt, when he was wet to the skin and his hands and feet were frozen, had a lasting impact on him. It was only 30 years later that he could again comfortably ride in the rain – albeit with a much better rain jacket.

With thanks to Rod Evans

Hubert Opperman - The Human Motor

For Hubert Opperman’s 1937 transcontinental record attempt, Perth motoring personality Aub Melrose was taken on board as mechanic, driver and navigator. Aub was a charismatic character with many talents and enthusiasms, among them photography.
The photos below were discovered in Aub’s tins of negatives, now with his grandson Tony. They are in the form of three processed, but uncut, rolls of black and white film. The uncut nature suggests that they have never before been printed .

Oppy was Malvern Star proprietor Bruce Smalls’ central marketing asset. This brochure would have been distributed by Malvern Star dealerships across the nation. The timed stops of the 1934 record, held by Billy Read, were listed, with an empty column on the right. The public were encouraged to follow Oppy’s progress on the wireless, and fill in his times in the blank space.

Vera Harding & Anna Keenan - The 'Lucas Girls'

Vera Harding’s hairdresser wages wouldn’t go far toward allowing her to see more of Australia. Hiking cost money and only got her 610kms from Mt Magnet to Perth. Sponsorship from bicycle manufacturer Malvern Star achieved a solo 2200km ride from Mt Palmer to Perth via Wiluna and Geraldton.

Vera’s yen for travel found new expression in a plan to ride across Australia.  Her companion was to be Anna Keenan, adventurous daughter of Russian émigrés.

Bill Lucas, governing director of Lucas Cycles, had a nose and talent for publicity. Approached for the loan of a secondhand tandem by the pair he instead offered them a new lightweight machine for their 1938 crossing.

So on Saturday the 17th of September 1938 a rousing send off from a huge crowd in Forrest Place started Vera and Anna on their 9500km odyssey to Sydney and return. They wore Lucas ‘team’ uniforms, of brown and gold reflecting the colours of their tandem, christened Miss Westralia. The tandem, festooned with canvas bags, carried nearly all the girls’ needs with additional support provided by Charlie Roberts astride his motorcycle outfit.

It’s possible that Bill Lucas underestimated either the popularity of the ride or the girls ability to complete it.

Initially supported by lone motorcyclist Charlie Roberts, Lucas enlisted Perth motoring celebrity Aub Melrose, navigator for Hubert Opperman’s 1937 crossing, and his wife Gwyn to offer further support from Kalgoorlie.

East of Kalgoorlie Vera and Anna came across a stray dog which they naturally took under their wings. Christened Tandem Pete he became an integral part of their story.

The story of the ‘Tandem Girls’ became huge. Closely followed by the press and as one report said “being received and entertained by Mayors and Lord Mayors, Mayoresses and Lady Mayoresses, presidents of Shire Councils and chairmen of Roads Boards, amidst cheering multitudes”.  The ‘Girls’, being female trailblazers were scrutinised very closely. The public learnt that they were attractive; they didn’t drink or smoke; what they weighed; how tall they were;  their hair colour; that they carried a full beauty kit; their views on fashion and that neither of them had a young man.

After a weeks rest in Sydney, Vera, Anna and Tandem Pete began the journey home. Nullarbor veteran Aub Melrose “dipped his lid” to their “stout hearts, pluck, fortitude and courage for insisting on finishing the job they’d set out to do”. Averaging 160kms a day they suffered particularly over the “tortuous, sandy, fly and insect-infested track from Rawlinna to Golden Ridge”. After 28 days Vera, Anna and Tandem Pete were escorted through cheering crowds into Forrest Place in Perth to a reception from the State Premier Mr Willcocks before a crowd of thousands.

Viv Cull

Aub Melrose - Nullarbor Navigator

The proprietor of Malvern Star Cycles, Bruce Small, had one central promotional device; the record breaking rider Hubert ‘Oppy’ Opperman. In 1936 Oppy and Small were planning their assault on Billy Read’s 18 day 18 hour Fremantle to Sydney Record. The Eyre Highway was yet to be built and the seemingly unknowable west to east crossing retained an air of mystery and apprehension.

The support team found their navigator in Aubrey Melrose, ‘a talented master mechanic, motor cycle racer, car trial champion and surf lifesaver.’

By the time Melrose was recruited he had crossed the Nullarbor seven times (he made 52 crossings in his life). Daily rehabilitation of the support vehicles, a 1936 Ford and a 19 Dodge, towing a caravan and a trailer respectively, as well as avoiding the worst tracks  and scheduling riding around sand firming morning dews made him indispensable and Melrose and Opperman became lifelong friends.

Melrose was an enthusiast and among his many enthusiasms was a passion for photography. His life was well documented, sometimes literally from the driver’s seat. Despite having a dedicated photojournalist as part of the support team surviving photographs from the momentous transcontinental crossing are few. In just 23 frames over three rolls of film Aub Melrose managed to capture some of the most memorable moments of Oppy’s record ride.

Aubrey George Melrose was turning 40 the day after the Patriotic Grand Prix was raced on the streets of Applecross but he was a living contradiction to the old saying that “Life Begins at 40” - Aub Melrose had squeezed more into his first 40 years than many people would have thought possible in a lifetime.

In the 1920s he was a champion state surf lifesaver, surfboat captain for the Cottesloe club and the first person in the state to paddle a surf ski.  His athletic build made him the “Charles Atlas” of Cottesloe Beach but it was with motorcycles that he found his greatest fame as a young man.

He joined the Coastals Motorcycle Club and won his first race on Fremantle Oval in 1923.  He learned how to ride on the grass tracks at Fremantle and Claremont and his physical fitness held him in good stead on the longer trials events in the Hills area of Perth.

Aub Melrose was always looking for greater challenges.  In 1929 he set out to become the first motorcyclist to ride from Kalgoorlie to Perth in a day.  He accomplished the feat on a Sunbeam motorcycle in 12 hours four minutes, pushing through waterlogged conditions from Merredin to Perth when a cyclone came through.  He later set a record on the route with his friend Roy Sharman who was a Gallipoli veteran, and motorcycle despatch rider during World War One.

Aged 27 he was in Britain seeking to show his skills on a bigger stage.  He was already a seasoned traveller.  As a 15 year old he had toured the world as a drum major in the band of the Young Australia League, having joined as a boy soprano when he was nine. He spoke on behalf of the YAL at the opening of the Panama Canal. At age 16 he had ridden his first motorcycle.

His motorcycling experience in Perth proved useful in England.  He became the first Australian to finish an Isle of Man Tourist Trophy race coming 17th in the junior event with very little road racing experience to draw on.  He went on to excel at international trials events riding for Sunbeam.

Aub and Sharman, who was also an accomplished trials rider, introduced scrambling to WA.  Scrambling (today called motocross) was racing over rough cross-country surfaces and it was becoming popular in England.

The two friends developed a course at Mosman Park near the rope factory on Boundary Road and the first Harley Scrambles event was held there by the Harley-Davidson Club in 1928.  The course was notoriously difficult with extremely steep climbs and tough downhill sections.  “Rope Gangs” were used to haul competitors and their motorcycles up the steepest parts if they couldn’t climb the slope.  Aub won three times in the early years.

His first success in four wheel vehicles came in the RAC’s 24 hours Centenary Motoring Trial in 1929.  He won the event losing only 2 points out of the 600 available. But organised trials took second place to motor racing at Lake Perkolilli and on hillclimb tracks near Perth during those years.

The idea of a club for those who wanted to compete in their cars without high speed racing emerged when Aub Melrose met Neill Baird who had brought a new MG from England.  The two formed the WA Car Club in the basement tearooms of Padbury House in Central Perth in June 1933.

The Club went from strength to strength catering for the sporting motorist who enjoyed trials and motorkhanas.

Aub Melrose had larger cars for daily use but it was with Austin Sevens that his fame spread in the motoring world.

In 1936, he won the South Australian Centenary Rally outright, beating 147 other competitors, in a 1929 Austin Seven which looked like it had seen better days.  His winnings were many times greater than the 68 guineas he had paid for the ageing car which had 100,000 miles on the odometer and two engine rebores.  He and his wife called the car “Baby Gay” after their son Graham and he spent three months rebuilding it to cope with the outback conditions.

Aub Melrose had become an expert on tuning Austin Sevens for reliability and performance and his garage was frequented by many sporting motorists and motorcyclists.  He re-built his little car again and again for different events.

The Austin appeared in many racing events during the late 1930s culminating in his run at Patriotic Grand Prix raced on the streets of Applecross in 1940.

A British motoring magazine reported on his effort at the Patriotic GP: “Despite 130,000 miles to its credit, including sporting events of all kinds, and despite, moreover, having been turned over in practice, the little 90mph car held the lead for well over half the distance and looked like a sure winner.  Then a head gasket “blew” and that was that.”

More practical pursuits such as selling and installing gas producers occupied most of his attention during the wars but he couldn’t help mixing adventures with business.  He drove a gas producer powered car from Perth to Sydney on the newly completed Military Road across the Nullarbor and in doing so became the first civilian to accomplish the feat.

His little Austin Seven’s last competitive event was after the war in a petrol consumption test.  The Austin was retired and Aub forged a new racing career at Caversham and later in the round Australia trials. At 60 years of age he was still racing cars and making a good account of himself in competition.

He was honoured by the Royal Automobile Club of WA in 2005 with a plaque on the Walk of Fame outside the club’s headquarters in Wellington Street.  The plaques celebrate the greatest contributors to motoring in the last century, and there is no doubt that the man who drove an ageing supercharged Austin Seven in the Patriotic Grand Prix was a legend.

Aub Melrose will be remembered as a legend of the sport who had boundless energy and enthusiasm for the roar of the exhaust and the sight of the chequered flag ahead.

With thanks to source Graeme Cox

Bruce Hunt

Bruce Hunt’s recalls his Perth to Sydney record ride.

World’s Longest Distance Unpaced Cycling Record

In 1973-1975, Bruce Hunt was in the prime of his cycling career. Often riding off scratch, he set fastest times in the 1974 and 1975 Beverley-to-Perth bike race for professional cyclists and he had impressed in the Australian Professional Road Titles held in Victoria. Encouraged by race organisers to compete in the 1974 Sun Tour, he was taken aback when his application was rejected by the Victorian League of Wheelman because, they determined, he would unlikely stand up to the rigours of the race. Having “trained his guts out” in anticipation, Bruce wondered what to do.

“I know what, I’ll have a dash at the Perth-to-Sydney Sydney record!”.

After landing sponsorship from the WA Trotting Association, other backers emerged including W.A. Peugeot importer Eurocars who offered to cover all expenses and provide a new Peugeot racing bike. Further sponsorship came from businesses as varied as sports brand Adidas, and a local butcher.

While a quality bike, it was not ideal for the record attempt. The Nullarbor wasn’t completely sealed until 1975 and the Peugeot racing bike offered little comfort on tarmac and little assistance negotiating miles of soft Nullarbor sand and deep corrugations the crossing was renowned for. So savage at times were the conditions, Bruce resorted to riding through the scrub and spinifex to the side of the road. In one section,  he was recorded as going over the bars 15 times as his front wheel sank into the soft sand.

Bruce had a talented team of 6 support crew that included 1972 Australian National Road Champion Kevin “Spanner” Spencer, 1964 British Junior Champion Peter Robinson and and Coach Ken Norris.  They shared cooking, bike maintenance, time keeping duties and of course, driving the support vehicles, a VW Kombi and Bedford bus.

Bruce met all the checkpoint requirements and broke the World’s Longest Distance Unpaced Cycling Record, completing the 2,721 miles (4,380 kilometres) in [11 days 6 hours], but not without one final frustration; arriving on the outskirts of Sydney in the mid-afternoon, out of concern for his safety and the traffic jams he might cause, he was made to wait until the peak hour traffic subsided.  One consolation, Bruce was given a police escort through to Sydney’s Martin Place!

Frank West

Scotchie Wright

Diary of a Ride

Of J.H. Wright From Fremantle to Adelaide 28.3.1898

March 28th 1898

Leaving Fremantle on Monday March 28th at 9.3 am we journeyed to Perth accompanied by Messrs Cooper and Rhodes on a tandem, Messrs Stotter & Jardine. We were met near Perth by Mr Rosling & F.A. White. We arrived at Perth G.P.O. 9.54 ½ am. Got a few things in Perth that were necessary, we then left Perth at 10:30am accompanied by a crowd of cyclists including Messsrs Armstrong, Rosling (2), Coulter, Bishop, Burville, Stotter, Thompson, E. Brown, White. We were met by the Swan Cycling Club who entertained us at the Freemasons Hotel Mid. Junction & gave us a very hearty send off.

Here we lost the company of a great number of our companions but we had the pleasure of Messrs Brown, Thompson & Stotter to Sawyers Valley.

Between Mid. Junction & Sawyers I had a very bad time (I was in such a hurry to get things ready before I left Fremantle that I did not enjoy my breakfast.) This I put down to the cause of it. Never the less when we arrived at Sawyers Valley we nearly ate the proprietor of the Hotel out of house and home.

To this point we had averaged 7 miles per hour. From the Valley we made up a bit of time, but the roads were something terrible & we had to walk about 5 miles as the road had been cut up for the jinker log haulers. (I think it would do the Chairman of the Roads Board good if he would take a trip down the road & see the trees that have been felled across the road.) We struck some really good roads then for 20 miles, to Northam.

Here we got our sheet signed at 7:40pm but I may say that we had to walk through Northam to the P.O. as the Town Ranger pulled us up as we entered the town (No lamps).

We went to Mrs Woods where we stayed for the night. We were accompanied to here by Mr Stotter.

Mileage for the day 74 ¼ mile.

Tuesday March 29th 1898

Leaving Northam at 7:40 am after having a good breakfast at host Woods. We journeyed along the York Road for about 16 miles where we turned off on to the Goldfields Road, which we found very fair for about 7 miles. We here left the telegraph line & had fair roads for about 5 miles, but the remaining 3 miles we had to walk as the sand was something awful. In this last 3 miles we struck 2 patches of about 100 yds apiece just like a racing track but it was too good to last. We reached Badgi at 12.30pm where we stopped & had dinner at a Mrs Taylor’s (by the way this lady must have known that cyclists are a hungry lot, for the meal was about enough for six. But still it disappeared & and after that lot, when we asked the price she wanted to know if 1/6 apiece would be too much.

Leaving this place at 1.40pm we rode on for a few miles & put a drop of water in the tanks. We then struck out for a place 20 miles from Badgi. We here bought some bread & took some water with us so that we could have something to eat on our going in to camp.

We tried to make Tammin Well, 13 miles distant, but darkness came on & we camped. There was such cold wind blowing that we got up and walked a few miles & then got into some scrub where we put in the remainder of the night, or morning.

Total 70 miles.

Wednesday Mar. 30th 1898

Getting an early start we pulled up at a house at the corner of the road but as it was so early we could not get anything to eat so we pushed along for about 19 miles. On this stretch we had to walk about 5 miles the road being so sandy.

The next place we came to was Morranoppin where we stopped for breakfast, Leake homestead (we did good justice to it.) We then pushed on to Hines Hill, a distance of 19 miles.

As it was still early we decided to go on to camp if necessary. We rode for a further distance of 22 miles then camped.

Days Mileage 60

Thursday Mar. 31st 1898

Getting an early start we made for a railway siding & after riding for about 4 miles along the railway line we came to Burracoppin. We here asked if we could get some breakfast but as they had run out of bread they advised us to make for Parks Road as it was only 6 miles, but as it turned out afterwards to be 24 miles (any excuse is better than none I expect we thought get rid of us.) But in making for the line we met some fellows & they directed us to Carrabin where Mr Hare, the telephone transmitter gave us a tin of meat and we made our breakfast out of that. We then plugged on to Noongar where Mr Kingston did what he could for us. He got us a place where we could get a dinner, at a Mrs Quinlan’s where this good lady must have known we were hungry for the meal she put down in front of us showed she had met hungry people. After leaving Noongar we made for the Cross 23 miles distant which we made in very fair time.

Arriving at the Cross at 5:30pm we stopped here for the night.

We here met Messrs Angelo & Hook. They gave us all the information they could which was very welcome.

The roads between here and Burracoppin were very heavy in places. We had to walk for miles.

We stayed at Southern Cross Hotel belonging to Mr Woods. 66 miles.

Friday April 1st 1898

After leaving the Cross at 7.10am we pushed on to try & make Boorabbin by 1pm. We did very well till we arrived at the edge of 18 mile sand plain. This plain took more out of us than we thought it would. The plain ended just before we got to Boorabin. On our arrival at Boorabin P. Office I found a telegram waiting me that I ought to have got at the Cross. It was from Mr E. Steele and Lorimer of Coolgardie wanting to know when we would be likely to reach Coolgardie so as they could come out & meet us. Answered this telegram also sent another to Mr F. Elliot.

We then went to the Boorabin Hotel which is about a mile from the P. Office. We here had dinner and then pushed on, but just before we got to Woolgangie a terrible gale started to blow so we pulled into Woolgangie. We made enquiries as to if we could get a bed at the Hotel but they had no room there for us, but Mr M. Grade of the Woolgangie who was on night duty at the time put the two of us into his bed & I tell you it was as good a sleep as ever I had.

Saturday April 2nd 1898

In the morning when we awoke he had breakfast awaiting us. Starting out after breakfast at 6.40am we left for Coolgardie. We pushed on till within 10 miles of Coolgardie. Here we were met by Messrs Lorimer & Steele on a tandem who took us along at a merry bat. About 6 miles from Coolgardie we were met by Mr W. Rogers.

We arrived at Coolgardie at 10.50am, about 12 hours ahead of time. Making a total of 387 miles from Fremantle to Coolgardie.

Leaving Coolgardie again at 4.15pm paced by Mr A Richardson I set out for Widgiemooltha, a distance of 50 miles.

The roads were very good.

We reached Horse Rocks Hotel, 21 miles from Coolgardie in 1 3/4 hours. It was getting dark as we got there so we stopped for tea & then went on our way again.

About 9 miles from Horse Rocks there is a hill called Gentle Annie & another called Gentle Annie’s Sister. They are real snorters, just like going down a flight of stairs.

The next place we came to of any note was Lake Lefroy, a dry salt lake with a splendid surface but the wind blows across it something terrible, at any rate we reached Widgiemooltha that night which was not a bad performance considering we stopped at Coolgardie about 6 hours. I might say that on our arrival at Coolgardie there was a telegram awaiting Mr Denning recalling him to Perth. Why he was recalled I could not say. Mileage 438. Stopped at Lefroy Hotel which is a great place.

Sunday April 3rd 1898

Arthur Richardson left Widgiemooltha about 10am. I stopped till 1.30 & wrote letters & had dinner, then set out for Binjeringa 35 miles. I reached 5 Mile Rocks & camped there in an old camp.

Monday April 4th 1898

In the morning I set out for Binjeringa which I reached in good time. Here I had breakfast at one of the soaks meeting a prospector who put me on to Frazer’s track. There was nothing of any great note on this track, all I had to do was to follow the tracks of a buggy & pair that had gone through to Ponton’s by way of Dempster’s.

This station is very complicated to get into, you travel about 7 miles after going through the first gate, then you have to got through goodness knows how many more.

I was just going to give it up in despair & camp for the night when I saw horse come trotting out of a gully & then I thought I could smell smoke, so I kept going & was rewarded by the dogs tackling me which I did not think anything about as long as there was a sign of a doss & meal. The first thing one of the station hands dis was to deal me out of a great billy of tea, then after that was done I was taken up to the house & tea prepared for me again (Lambs Fry & Bacon.) It was alright, the people here cannot do enough for you, not like the people you meet about the towns.

Mileage up to date 548

Tuesday April 5th 1898

Being up early I started and straightened my crank which I bent the night before. By the time I got breakfast and got everything ready it was 10am before I got going on the track again. I did not feel very well as I had a very bad attack of dysentry but I reached Ponton’s early mostly on account of the good roads. I passed through Newman Rocks before I thought & did not stop to see if there was water there as I had any amount. The next place for water was the place where the teamster shot the Afghan but I did not stop there. I stopped about 45 or 60 minutes on the road altogether to boil my billy & then on again reaching Ponton’s at 6.25. Here I went direct to the Telegraph Station and sent wires to Perth & then went on to the Telegraph operators camp & passed a part of the night with them, then went back to Overseer’s place to bed.

Had a very bad night & in the morning did not feel fit for riding so I decided to spell a day & trust to pull it up again as I was a lump inside of schedule time.

I forgot to say that the overseers name was Mr Dunn & Mrs Dunn who did everything they could possibly think of in the morning.

I met Mr W. Ponton, son of the proprietor, who is as nice a person as you could wish to meet. By the way the work this man turned out - bicycle work - is wonderful. A little while ago broke some spokes & nipples, got wire for spokes & then got brass, melted it, put it into moulds, bored them out & tapped them & when they were finished there was not much difference between them and the other nipples. He also had the misfortune to break a fork side, so he set to work with an old barrel of a gun & made a job of it that I think would do justice to any repair shop in the colonies.

Thursday April 7th 1898

Leaving Ponton’s at 9.30 I started for the 90 mile tank. 40 miles from Ponton’s I came to what is called the 40 mile tank. I took some water aboard& set out again arriving at the 90 mile tank at 7.15pm, distance of 79 miles. Mileage up to date 705. Camped at the 90 mile. This tank (90 mile) is a cemented underground tank. The others are 400 gallon iron tanks. These tanks are very handy for camping as there is a great iron roof over them to act as a catchment.

While I was here it rained something terrible - good thing I reached here. There roads up to here were good but there was a good gale blowing.

Friday April 8th 1898

Morning dull & windy. Had breakfast, started for my day’s work. The roads put o the 40 mile tank on the 90 mile line were slightly hilly & stony.

I very nearly missed the 40 mile tank which is about 3/4 mile off the road & on the telegraph line. But on my regaining the road I went on a few miles & discovered the road tank. I came on to a camel team, just a bit ahead & as I was short of food I got some off the Afghan camel drivers. I pushed on again to the 70 mile mile tank & camped beyond there for the night.

Mileage 775

Saturday April 9th

Got a start at 7am with nothing but sand around me, up one hill & down the other side till I struck Graham’s 25 miles distant. After 9 hours hard walking I arrived at Grahams just about done. They had a good dinner waiting for meat they were expecting me. They could not do enough for me. I may mention here atet about a mile from the station, on the coast a cyclist, a Mr Saunders, had a very narrow escape from death 2 weeks ago. Travelling from Eucla direction he ran short of water & in making for the station he missed it & got down on the beach & was found there nearly mad drinking the salt water. He got alright again.

Stopped the night at Graham’s mileage 800

Sunday April 10th 1898

Got going 10am. Took 3 hours to get over 6 miles of sand across country. I started for Midura but easterly wind blew me to a standstill. On the plains I camped till the night & wind stopped then I did about 30 miles after the moon rose. Campled at Midura Station all night

Mileage 856

Monday April 11th 1898

I got on the wrong track this morning and travelled about 6 miles before I knew it. Was put on track by blackfellow. Still easterly wind blowing. I made Kennedy and McGill’s station & was done up. Stayed here for the night

Mileage 912

Tuesday April 12th 1898

Left station early & was taken bad with diarrhoea. Stoped at hut 11 miles from station. Felt better next morning & made for Eucla with west wind to blow me along. I took 7 hours to go 50 miles. Had dinner at Eucla. Left Eucla for Nullabor but had to put back again - too bad.

I was taken worse than I had been all along the road. I put this down to the water I got at the hut 11 miles from Kennedy’s it fairly hummed.

Mileage 973

Tuesday April 19th 1898

Left Eucla for Nullabor. The road here for the first 35 miles is sand & stumps but after passing the first tank (35miles) it improves. I did 74 miles that day & then camped. Mileage

Wednesday April 20th 1898

Made an early start for Nullabor which I at dinner time somewhat knocked up. The head wind took it all out of me. At Nullabor Mrs Creigh took me in hand. I stopped here 3 days. During my stay here I spent a very pleasant time.

Saturday April 23rd 1898

Left Nullabor accompanied by Mr Creigh who is ardent cyclist. I had his company as far as the White Well 6 miles from Station. I journeyed on to the Bight, 18 miles from this to Nanwarra, 30 miles is something similar to Eyre’s Patch (I misunderstood Mr Creigh & got on wrong track - followed the telegraph line instead of the mail track.)

The next place after leaving the Bight, of any consequence is the tank 8 miles from Bight. The the next place is the second tank 23 miles from Bight. It was here that I made the mistake. Instead of taking the mail track I followed the telegraph line for 8 miles before I found out I was wrong. Camped for the night.

Sunday April 24th 1898

Started back again for tank Dicks Plains. Here I got on the proper tracks, reaching Nanwarra Station at midday. By making the mistake I covered 16 miles too much. Mileage to here 1169.

While at Kennedy & McGill’s station I read an account of the trip of Messrs Bayles & Eagal. In this they stated that they had been treated rather badly by the Manager of Nanwarra Station. Where the got the course to complain I do not know & I don’t think anyone else does either. Making statements such as they made is likely to make it bad for any other cyclist who may be be passing here. From my experience I think that Mr Gleeson is not one of those men at all. They complained that they had to sleep on the floor of the hut.

It is a pity they ever left their mothers’ apron strings. Stayed at Nanwarra over night.

The road to here is very sandy & has to be walked. From the tank you get rideable track for about 6 miles then the remaining 8 miles to Colona is off & on. Stopped at Colona & had dinner.

Colona is a deserted station. They had to leave on account of the drought which has been very bad for 4 years. After dinner I left for Corringitie but after going 14 miles came to a Mr Weir’s place. He told me there was no-one at Corringitie so I stopped there. For the night.

Mileage 1217

Wednesday April 27th 1898

Left the Weir’s place, passed Corringitie (4 miles). There are huts all around here but very few inhabitants. I saw a man in the distance, driving a team. Passed Corringitie & crossed telegraph line twice & and then took the left hand track. About 3 miles along here I came to Pentumba, another old deserted station. There is a man camped here though just to look after the windmill. I stopped and had some tucker with him then left Yallata Flats where there are a few farmers. I got off the track here & went to a farm where I had a cup of tea & feed. Was directed to right track.

Distance to here about 6 miles. After leaving Yallata I passed a few farms before I came to Bookerby. It is all very fair riding to here & a few miles of walking. I here had tea with Mr Meldrum a missionary stationed here. After leaving Bockerby I had 12 miles of good riding & then the remaining 8 miles all walking. I reached Penong Station which is suffering through the drought. At shearing time last years they had 11,000 sheep & now they only have 1,000. Wild dogs and drought playing havoc with them.

On my arrival at Penong Station Mrs Murray prepared tea for me as it was long after tea time. When one is travelling like this he can do a feed every hour. Mileage to here 1276

Thursday April 28th 1898

Left Penong accompanied by Mr A. Murray who is an ardent cyclist. I had his company for about 25 miles. He showed me the best road so I profited by his being with me. Took the mail route from Penong. 15 ½ miles from there took north east track, passed Drummett’s woolshed 22 ½ miles from Penong. Mr Murray to Mr A. Pains for dinner. After leaving here struck telegraph line after about 2 miles, followed line for a mile and came to Mr Smith’s far, had another lunch & left for Denial Bay (McKenzie). I just stopped here and then pushed on for tanks at Murat Bay 10 miles further on (McKenzie). Here I met an Afghan who directed me to Mr Tourney’s farm where I had tea & stopped for the night. Any amount of tanks between Penong and here. Mileage 1331.

Friday 29th April

Left Mr Tourney’s farm & called in at another farm 4 miles away. This man has been overland so I went to him for some hints. Rode along the Meghiny 12 miles from Murat Bay Tanks. Called in at another farm as this was the last I would see for 100 odd miles & thought it best to get food on board. Pushed on to Wandna (12 miles from Meghiny) got water here and set going again. Came across bike tracks & decided to follow them as they seemed to go the way I wanted. Came to Govt. Tank about 12 or 14 miles. No water in it. Camped at woolshed about ½ mile from there. Wild dogs kicked up a terrible row. Woolshed was at Nungikompita.

Saturday 30th April 1898

Left Nungikompita shed at 7.30am & pushed on. Goodness knows where I was going, I did not. Was just going to turn back when I noticed a hut in the distance. Found water there, boiled billy & had some scran. A young chap came along on horseback. He belonged to a wild dog party.

He told me it was Puria hut and advised me to wait until his father came along as he knew the country all around. The father on returning, was so busy that he could hardly spare a moment, but he gave me a very pressing invitation to stay with him till he could have more time to himself. As I was in no hurry I decided to stop. Borrowed a gun from him and went out after rabbits, but they were a bit too smart for me. The blacks of the camp got some & I had the pleasure of tasting some of their cooking. They bake the rabbits in the ashes with fur on everything. When cooked they skin them. They were very tasty. Stopped all day Sunday.

Monday 2nd May 1898

Left Puria Hut at 8.30 am. I did not got to Wlula Rocks, took shortcut to First tanks, distance 19 miles. Crossed the telegraph line 15 miles from Puria Hut then dodged in and out of it the next 4 miles. To Yartoo

1st tank from Puria 19 miles

2nd tank from 1st tank 7 ½ miles

3rd tank from 2nd tank 15 miles

Ponky Dam from last tank 7 ½ miles

Ponky Dam from Yardoo about 16 miles

From the first tank to the third tank nearly all sand. Had to walk a great part of it. Road through ranges water washed. Arrived Yartoo Station 3pm. Stopped there for the night for fear the road was bad. I was treated very well by Mr Crawford of Yartoo.

Tuesday 3rd May 1898

Left Gartoo at 8am. Road very fair. Reached Yardea at 9.30 am. Stopped there for dinner at the invitation of Mr Cole, the station master & Mr Kirk. Left there at 3pm. Passed Thurlga 18 miles at 5pm. Road very rough, hilly & sandy to there, rode 4 ½ miles further to the camp of the wild dog party sent out by the S.A. Govt. under the management of Mr Hubble, a real toff, who could not do enough for me. I enjoyed the evening playing crib with him and his party.

Wednesday May 4th 1898

I left the 5 mile hut where Mr Hubble & his party were camped at 9.30am and intend to make as far as possible. Tried to take a short cut across country but got on wrong track & went 8 miles before I discovered my mistake. Was on the lookout for Coralbignie Station 35 miles from the 5 mile hut. Took the wrong track 1 mile west of the station, got out as far as Nonning old woolshed, put back to pick up track again & came to Coralbignie Station drenching wet as it had rained 3 good showers since I left the 5 mile. Decided to stop with Mr Cameron the station owner. This gentleman is an ardent cyclist, he use the bike to round up his cattle here & says he could not do without it as the horses are too poor & could not trust a day’s journey to them. This is the gentleman the Pastoral Commision made a note of for using the bike for this purpose.

Mileage 1530

Thursday 5th May 1898

Left Coralbignie en route for Port Augusta. Camped at Panduera Station that night & left next morning & arrived in Port Augusta about 9am Friday.

Saturday 7th May 1898

In the morning got man in a boat to row me across to the other side. Met crowd with bikes on opposite side waiting for the President of the Club to come. They were going out to meet me. I made myself known to them and they to me to the President’s Hotel opposite the wharf. Got a good welcome, had a good wash & breakfast. Afterwards went out shopping with some of the Pt Augusta lads. Had haircut & shave, pants shirt, coat, hat, shoes & socks & and was not allowed to pay for anything. I after had a welcome from the residents of Pt Augusta in the hall. Spent the day here.

Sunday 8th May 1898

Left at 9am with about 20 cyclists. We parted at Horrocks Pass & I pushed on through Wilmington. At Melrose for dinner & had tea at Gladstone & off again & pulled up at Yacka. 1729 miles. Head wind blew all day.

Monday 9th May 1898

Left Yacka, wind still blowing a gale. Pushed though to Clare had dinner & through to Tarlee. Delivered a mail from Yardea Post Officer to the Kirk’s mother, on of the operators at Yardea. Had tea with them & then pushed on through through Templers to Gawler.

No lamps in town or on bike. Ran into Constable Shinnick & Mr Brown who were yarning in the middle of the road. Things looked queer for me. I gave my name & address when demanded. I was forgiven my sins & they proceeded to give me a welcome into Gawler on behalf of themselves & fellow citizens. I pushed on to Adelaide after being instructed by Constable Shinnick how to go about things.

I did as he told me & everything turned out alright.

Arrived Adelaide 2am 10th May 1898

Mileage 1842

Right through without puncture

In all I had 16 days (can’t read this bit)

Arthur Richardson

A born adventurer, among his many feats at the turn of the 20th century Arthur Richardson planned and executed the first solo circumcycling of Australia. Hugh Richardson, Arthur's grand nephew, has republished the famous and rare account of Arthur's trip "A Remarkable Ride". Hugh spoke at the January 2018 meeting. For more on this story read Jim Fitzpatrick’s entry on Arthur at the Australian Dictionary of Biography.

Richardson Reaches Katherine The West Australian Monday September 11th 1899

On Friday evening we received the following telegram from Arthur Richardson, who is engaged in an attempt to cycle round Australia, and who left Perth early in June last :

KATHERINE, September 8.
From Hall’s Creek, the last telegraph station on the West Austral- ian side, I rode across very rough, mountain- ous country to Flora Valley, then running the Regenda Creek down to Booty’s station. Here the bad country for blacks commenced with a rough piece of country to Ord River Station. I got through all right, and, spelling there for two days, I got a look at some maps of the country, for there are no roads or tracks from Ord River to the Katherine. I also got a good supply of our, beef, etc. I made a seven days’ stage “per boot” to Wave Hill, having a very rough time, running out of tucker, and living like a black- fellow. I struck Wave Hill Station all right. Mr. Cahill, the manager, made me very wel- come, and I had a good spell there.
Then, with the worst patch of country in Australia in front of me, I got a black boy to show me a short cut across the ranges to the Victoria River but he “reckoned plenty blackfel- lows all about,” and ran away, the rst night, leaving me “on my own.” I had a very rough time from constant exposure and several falls caused through travelling at night, and had very little sleep, for the blacks are very bad. I had no “ tucker“ but what I could catch, and I was fairly tired out by the time I struck the Victoria River about seven miles below the station. Here Mr. Watson, the manager, insisted on my having a good spell, absolutely refusing to let me go on.
Luckily, while I was there he had news from Wyndham that would take him to Port Darwin at once, so I travelled in with him. We were both glad of company for the blacks are bad all through here, and no one ever goes out mustering without a 9in.“colt” in his belt. The last two hundred and forty miles to the Katherine has not had any wheel traf c on it for four years, so that I could not travel much faster with my bike than Mr. Watson with the horses. We got in here this afternoon. My bike tyres are all right, and I am going strongly.
ARTHUR RICHARDSON.